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Food

Bread Street Kitchen & Bar review

Sophisticated, grown-up venue with enough space for the little ’uns to roam

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© ITP Images

Gordon Ramsay’s Dubai venture comprises a huge bar area, sprawling dining room and large outdoor terrace, all seemingly far too big to fill up. But don’t be fooled – it gets busy. Very busy. On our visit on a Friday evening, almost every table was taken by the time we’d finished our meal, so making a reservation is a very wise move.

It’s this sense of space that makes BSK so good if you’re on an outing with the whole tribe. The bar area is big enough and far enough away from the main restaurant space for it to feel separate, but still close enough to your table if you’re seated inside and taking a breather.

The outdoor space is ideal if you have little ones inclined to stretch their legs in between courses – there’s enough room for kids to roam without disturbing other guests – and with such balmy winter weather it’s perhaps the perfect spot.

It is partly the name above the door that no doubt draws the crowds, but that sentiment alone would do a disservice to the food, which is frankly delicious.

The menu is full of homely dishes, with a touch of elegance and they really are of a calibre you’d expect (and hope for) from a chef of Ramsay’s top standing.

To start, the cured Scottish salmon with avocado, yuzu and cucumber dressing is simple yet full of sprightly flavour. The baby chicken with chimichurri main is again simple but tasty, though the stand-out of the meal is the crispy beef short rib with pomegranate, pomello and hoisin honey glaze, also a starter. The tender cubes are sticky sweet and full of rich, intense flavour, and the delicate meat falls apart beautifully. It’s reason enough to book a return visit on its own.

With a decent kids’ menu and plenty of sweet treats from the dessert and ice cream bar, this is a great all-rounder from a British culinary great that you won’t need to remortgage your house for. Result.

The bill (for two)
1x crispy beef short rib Dhs95
1x cured Scottish salmon Dhs70
1x tamarind chicken wings Dhs55
1x Josper-grilled baby chicken Dhs165
1x vegetarian Wellington Dhs138

The bottom line
A great all-rounder for the whole tribe.
Open Sat-Thu noon-4pm, 6pm-10.30pm; Fri noon-4pm, 7pm-11.30pm. Licensed. Atlantis The Palm, Palm Jumeirah (04 426 2626).


Time Out Dubai,

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