The Shortlist

Traiteur, Park Hyatt Dubai
Nominated for Best French
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Between the glamorous setting of the Park Hyatt Dubai, and its ambient creek-side exteriors, Traiteur certainly doesn't let the side down when it comes to looks. There’s the central stage of an open kitchen, imposing ceilings with impressive undulations and a mosaic of convex pyramids lining the walls. However, on our last visit, service was not as smooth as previously experienced, with some staff at a loss for words when asked about the menu. Sadly, the same has to be said of the dishes. On our visit, the snails in a buttery parsley sauce had an ever so slightly gritty, muddy taste, the scallops in a madras sauce were too sweet, and even the bread basket was largely tough and chewy. While the menu displays the same mix of French classics and modern creations, the dishes we’ve sampled don’t have the same level of creativity or perfect preparation as was once the case. Sadly, it seem Traiteur has gone a little off the boil, if not entirely.
Open Sun-Fri 7pm-midnight. Park Hyatt Dubai, Deira (04 317 2222).

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