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Rang Mahal by Atul Kochhar, JW Marriott Marquis
Highly Commended for Best Romantic
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Rang Mahal, Michelin-starred Atul Kochhar’s Indian eatery, promises ‘authentic yet excitingly modern’ fare and a vow to use ethically sourced, local ingredients. So expectations were high upon entering this darkly lit, fine-dining space, adorned with giant murals and huge carved pillars. It felt more like a nightclub when we visited, but this was probably mostly down to the overly up-tempo house music dominating the ear drums. But no matter, the food is rather exceptional. A hearty starter is the hand-shredded lamb masala Hyderabadi gosht, which consists of three patty-type cakes of dense meat infused in a yoghurt mixture, producing a delicious, creative texture. Elsewhere, the Goan shrimp curry is wonderful, with expertly sourced crustaceans that come in a light yet luxurious, citrus-hued sauce. It is sometimes hard to feel impressed by Indian cooking at this end of the price spectrum when you know you can have a decent curry for a fraction of the price just down the road in Deira, but we have to admit that Kochhar pulls it off here in style.
Open Mon-Sat, 6pm-1pm. JW Marriott Marquis Hotel, Sheikh Zayed Road (04 414 3000).


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