Previously the man behind Table 9 and, in London, the man behind Marcus Wareing’s The Berkeley, and Gordon Ramsay’s Petrus, British chef Darren Velvick has got some serious clout on his CV. The Croft is the first restaurant for the chef that is all his own vision, and it certainly impresses. Cute, cartoony caricatures cover the walls, offset by retro British furnishings and a large marble counter laden with produce, farmhouse-style. There’s also a huge open kitchen and a new “juniper garden” on the terrace. Service is warm and efficient, while the menu features modern British spirit alongside numerous Asian and Mediterranean references, from the organic Al Ain chicken stuffed with foie gras and truffle to the wild organic salmon teriyaki with pak choi. What really sets the menu apart, though, is how light and home-made many of the dishes seem. Local mackerel is gently seared to retain the sweet and oily freshness within, then daringly teamed with only a fresh, Scandi-summer smattering of shredded raw carrot, apple and radish. It is a story played out across the menu, where natural flavours and textures sing, without being over-seasoned or overly heavy. This food looks simple yet stunning, and tastes just as good.