An Egyptian street snack and much-loved comfort food, feteer occupies the same place as Lebanese manakish in many expats’ hearts. If you haven’t yet had the utter good fortune of quieting a rumbling stomach with one, feteer is perhaps best described as a cross between the multi-layered, buttery goodness of an Indian paratha and the crisp flakiness of a Greek filo pie. But try it for yourself you must, and new Jumeirah Lakes Towers bakeshop E&T Feteer should be your first port of call.
A small, casual outlet near the Bonnington, E&T, the brainchild of two Egyptian-Canadian and Egyptian-German business partners, has a warm, family-run feel and an open kitchen at its centre. It’s tempting to take a seat outside overlooking the neighbourhood’s waterways, but make sure you peek indoors to watch the chef at work.
Though you’ll find thoroughly traditional stuffed meshaltet here, the more sparing pastry techniques employed are designed to keep the calorie counts down – something the owners believe sets E&T apart.
In addition to flat, stuffed meshaltets, which come with sweet and savoury filling options, you can also try wraps and rolls, ranging from feta to shawarma to hot dog. A more adventurous choice of ratatouille-stuffed feteer roll is rewarded with an oozy, creamy, tangy filling of aubergine, peppers, tomato and cheese, and ordered as a combo, with salad, fries and a drink, is enough to fill two greedy diners. That said, it would be madness not to move on to a meat meshaltet – even if it is huge and hearty enough to share between four (the leftovers will easily keep you in breakfasts for two days).
It’s with a heavy heart and bulging belly we have to pass on a honey and cream-topped ending. Luckily, that’s just another reason to return.
The bill (for two) 1x meat meshaltet Dhs65 1x feteer combo 2 Dhs45
The bottom line Hearty, handmade Egyptian comfort food you need to get acquainted with. Today.