With a menu designed by an ex-elBulli chef in the kitchen and graced with impeccable staff front-of-house, LALUZ is bursting with inspiration from all corners of Spain, and it’s uniformly excellent. Unreservedly recommended are the “spherical olives”. One of those molecular efforts that make your head hurt if you try to figure out how they’ve been achieved, these glorious balls of olive reduction are held inside a meniscus so thin it dissolves on impact with your mouth, jolting your taste buds out of their slumber.Main dishes impress in equal measure. From Galicia arrives paprika-sprinkled potatoes and meaty, sliced octopus in a sauce so positively life-affirming it might just revive it. While from Valencia – the home of paella – comes LALUZ’s spin on the Spanish institution, a Mediterranean prawn black rice so fresh and deep it transports you in a blink from the financial district to the briny, cool blue of the ocean. Olé.