Syrian restaurants are few and far between in Dubai, compared to eateries from neighbouring Lebanon, anyway. And Sargon is doing its bit to raise the profile of the nation’s cuisine, with mixed results. Your introduction to Sargon is the shisha smoking section, which is usually busy. To get to the non-smoking area, though, you need to walk through the shisha cloud, out the back of the restaurant, across a courtyard and into an annexe. Here, the atmosphere isn’t quite as lively as the shisha area. You may be on your own, with a huge TV showing football for company. The giant screen jars slightly within the otherwise elegant décor, consisting of plush cushions, intricate lamps and decorative motifs. Service, too, is impressive; slick, knowledgeable and friendly. And the food has a pleasant, home-made quality, almost rustic at times, and flavourful. Fatteh hummus is creamy dish of tender chicken and crunchy roasted pine nuts, interspersed with sweet pomegranate seeds. The selection of Turkish-style pide is pleasant, too – pizza like in its presentation, but with a combination of sweet and savoury flavours with a hint of spice. It’s not the most polished of dining experiences, but there’s enough to warrant a visit for some Syrian flavours.