The steak we’re eating is fantastic. So is the one on the other side of the table. And considering the slant of this American Western-style grill restaurant, we’re relieved. But sadly, not everything is quite up to scratch.
The USDA rib-eye is tastiest, with enough fat running through the medium-well-cooked meat to give it a good, rich flavour, and the Australian wagyu fillet is excellent, though the tender flesh just doesn’t hold the same sway for us as a piece of meat marbled with fat.
It’s a shame then, that the mac ’n’ cheese doesn’t really deliver to the same standard – it solidifies and becomes difficult to eat quite quickly – and the sautéed spinach lacks seasoning.
Starters are a curious bunch, consisting mainly of different kinds of taco. Unfortunately there is no guacamole available so we plump for cod tacos. They’re a little tough to eat as the cheese becomes hard work, though the fish is meaty and nicely flavoured, Mexican-style.
Service is a little strange, too. We’re the only diners in, but our waiter seems unable to cope with seating us, taking orders and clearing the table.
Don’t get us wrong, Range is in its early days and will improve, we’re sure. But right now, there are a few kinks to iron out. The Bottom Line Top steaks, but the rest needs work.