When we step onto the terrace of The Atlantic, we’re blown away by the views. This new seafood restaurant occupies a prime spot overlooking The Dubai Fountain. Visitors to the city will undoubtedly be wowed, but even long-term residents will be moved by the setting.
It’s for the best that we’re outside, as the dining room back indoors is empty and we’re not sure the safe décor really does justice to the excellent food that the kitchen sends out. However, it’s early days and on our visit it doesn’t have its licence (it does now). Maybe it just needs people to come to life.
The menu runs the full gamut of a seafood restaurant including catches of the day, a counter of fresh produce and cold platters as well as regular main courses and starters.
We choose from the à la carte menu and kick off with a crab bisque. The rich, creamy soup has great consistency and plenty of shellfish flavour, but lacks a little seasoning. It’s poured over a raviolo with thick, wobbly pasta and a dense crab filling. Delicate it ain’t, but it’s filled with flavour.
Soft-shell crab is more consistent. The batter is light and crunchy and the South East Asian sauce, chillies and coriander go perfectly.
Mains are absolutely faultless. The confit salmon’s silky slivers slide apart. Each mouthful of fish is rich and satisfying. The carrots and asparagus it comes with are cooked perfectly. The bream is just as good, the meat has bite, is juicy and goes well with the fennel underneath. However, the punch from the anchovies in the side of kale could knock Anthony Joshua out, meaning it overpowers everything else.
A restaurant with a stunning setting that doesn’t rest on the laurels of its location.
The Bill (for two) 1x crab bisque Dhs69 1x tempura soft shell crab Dhs99 1x olive oil confit salmon Dhs159 1x black bream en papillot Dhs159 1x sautéed kale Dhs39 1x chocolate and hazelnut tart Dhs39 1x large water Dhs29 Total(excluding service) Dhs593 The Bottom Line An almost perfect new restaurant.