When a restaurant gives itself a name that roughly translates as “the boss”, it is perhaps opening itself up for criticism. Thankfully, first impressions of Il Capo are very good indeed. There are high ceilings, marble pillars and oak bars, and there are massive floor-to-ceiling windows that look out onto the Dubai Water Canal. There are smart staff, cool tunes being played by a funky DJ and a refreshingly brief menu. Even before ordering, everything about the Al Habtoor City venue impresses. The Gorgonzola-stuffed courgette flowers are simply wonderful – crispy, fragrant, gooey – and the arancini are perfectly executed, too. Burrata, unlike revenge, is not a dish best served cold, and the kitchen could do with warming the cheese and tomatoes up a little. Mains of New York strip loin and butternut squash ravioli are excellent. Steaks are cooked perfectly and full of flavour, and the pasta, with a nutty butter and sage sauce, is a testament to keeping things simple. “The boss” it is indeed.