Molecule, billed as “French bistronomy” (the idea of combining “bold and rich flavours in a casual-dining setting”), is another one to add to that fast-growing list.
If you didn’t know Molecule was here, there’s every chance you might miss it, as the door is so inconspicuous. Once discovered, there’s a petite terrace with a European feel, hidden away from the road and office blocks, lending an intimate feel. The restaurant itself is housed in a narrow space with eclectic, artsy décor.
Sadly, despite it being a Thursday evening when we visit, the atmosphere isn’t quite there, with only a handful of tables filled. The food, however, makes Molecule worth a visit, with dishes of a standard you’d expect from Michelin-star-wielding chef Udo Moreau.
We kick off with a smooth tuna tartare, lifted by some punchy wasabi. Meanwhile the salmon fillet, served with a sticky soy glaze, is perfectly cooked and delicious.
Curiosity wins out and we can’t help ordering the goat’s cheese ravioli with lemongrass and prawn foam. What sounds like a zany combination of flavours is just that, but surprisingly really works. It’s a generous portion too, with plenty of the delicate, pillowy discs.
We follow our waiter’s advice as we venture into dessert territory, opting for Mysterious Arabica. Our trust is rewarded when an arty, chocolatey creation with a coffee taste comes our way.
It’s an ideal end to a top meal, that’s only slightly let down by the vibe. When d3 really comes into its own, so will Molecule.
The bill (for two) 1x tiger prawns Dhs74 1x tuna tartare Dhs58 1x goat's cheese ravioli Dhs74 1x salmon Dhs69 1x Mediterranean Dhs24 1x millefuille Dhs29 1x Mysterious Arabica Dhs35 1x large water Dhs22 Total (excluding service and tax) Dhs385
The bottom line Excellent, well-thought out dishes in a room that’s a little on the quiet side.