Top food at this Dubai Marina location, with views and prices to match
Time Out Dubai staff
The entrance to Fümé, with its paradoxical mishmash of the arty and the industrial, has always been an aesthetic hit. But now, on a Friday between the hours of midday and 4pm, it also calls out to your wallet, too – a siren song to those lost souls on the lookout for a quality brunch at a tasty price.
Now it comes with a very appealing sign indeed, one that reads simply: Brunch – Dhs199. Yes, there are cheaper brunches in the city, but you tend to find them off the Sheikh Zayed Road somewhere, in a pub boasting live sports and sticky carpets, not nibbling on an immaculate lamb cutlet while gazing out at the fine views from Dubai Marina’s Pier 7.
That edifice of eating and drinking is, of course, an ideal spot for a day and night out on the town given all its post-brunch possibilities, and Fümé might just be an ideal spot to kick proceedings off.
Certainly, we arrive with doubts as to the quality of menu-regulars our sub-two-hundred smackers will buy us and leave four hours later full-bellied and full of Friday joy.
Starters are an odd combo of a bowl of edamame, some buttermilk fried chicken, a platter of calamari with a cute, pink, sweet chilli sauce and almond flakes, and feta and watermelon salad. Cumulatively this strange marriage is discombobulating, like the chef has taken a Pin the Tail on the Donkey, blindfolded approach to his recipe books.
Individually, though, with the exception of the edamame, which feel like they’re there just to make up the numbers, they’re all good. The same goes for the puds, an incongruous smorgasboard of decent crème brûlée to mini-éclairs and petite apple tarts.
It’s the main courses that bring the harmony, and the heartiness. They arrive after a selection of sourdough sarnies – some great, like the salmon one; some less so, like the one packed with halloumi so rubbery it could probably be used in motorsport.
And they are most definitely worth the wait. Mini Angus beef burgers are magnificently juicy, while the substantial side dishes of meatballs with parmigiana and pappardelle (the king of pasta, if you ask us), and the baked mac ’n’ cheese are superbly rich and unctuous. Throw in that aforementioned delightful arrangement of lamb cutlets, seared perfectly pink and glistening in a sticky-sweet glaze, and the effect is a palpitations-rich selection of flavours that just plain sing.
Factor in that all of this is reorderable as many times as you fancy (although you might not need to) and a seriously good selection of mixed drinks on top of the standard house staples, and Fümé’s Friday affair is one that should go the distance.
The bottom line Some good and some great food, at an excellent price.