An elegant way to spend an afternoon indulging in great French food
Time Out Dubai staff
The Restaurant at the Address Boulevard is a home away from home – if you’re royalty, anyway.
The theme is a residence, and judging by the library, music room and dressing room, we’re talking an abode of the upper echelons.
Somehow we make the cut and take an excited totter over gleaming marble floors to the dining room, which is all soft furnishings, stacks of pillows and big rugs that you could never fit in your own home (or probably afford).
The space is light and airy, with huge windows looking out onto the Burj Khalifa and lovely hotel gardens, and a traditional French band create an authentic ambience. The restaurant is busy, without people tripping over each other, and we’re pleased to learn that the food will be served to our table.
The sophisticated brunch is inspired by the French Riviera and we feel suitably fancy when we’re presented with seasonal young vegetable crudités with kalamata olive and sun-dried tomato tapenade, and a selection of breads. The olive focaccia is warm and salty and we chow down in a way unbefitting of Mademoiselles.
Next up are the entrèes, which are all light, fresh and delicious. We particularly enjoy the salad Niçoise with seared yellowfin tuna and the bread tartine with beef tartare. The red prawn and scallop crudo is also pretty special, and when friendly waiters arrive with oysters we’re more than happy to delve in. Entrèe plates are unlimited and you can re-order as many as you like, but we’re already eyeing up the next round, where a slow-cooked Angus beef short rib has caught our eye.
The meat arrives with creamy polenta and a smoked thyme jus, and is tender and flavour-packed. We’re also served a fregula with porcini mushroom sauce, which goes down with exclamations of “ooh la la”.
A seafood lasagne with rouget and lobster bisque is nice but regrettably goes largely untouched in favour of the rather filling (but extremely moreish) polenta.
We do, of course, leave room for dessert, which is laid out on a buffet platter, and includes everything from a sweet strawberry tart and indulgent chocolate cake to a stack of fresh doughnuts and a mound of jelly beans.
Four o’clock rolls around way faster than we’d have liked, but the afternoon has been the ultimate flight of French fancy and we regret having to say au revoir so soon. Dhs325 (soft drinks), Dhs425 (house beverages), Dhs525 (bubbly). Friday 12.30pm-4pm, Address Boulevard, Downtown Dubai (04 888 3444).
The bottom line Lovely fare in sophisticated surroundings.