Asha’s in Wafi, Oud Metha, Dubai - Restaurant Reviews

Asha’s

Subtlety is the key to Asha’s success, from the refined décor to the delicate fusion of flavours found in each of the dishes we savoured. Come in vindaloo, your time is up 13 Reviews

View slideshow

Picture 1 of 2

For too long the cuisine of the world’s largest democracy has been reduced to just one dish: ‘curry.’ A shorthand has developed to help the culturally-challenged cope with the range of dishes on offer: madras means hot, vindaloo means painfully hot, the timid eat chicken tikka masala and beer accompanies everything.

While the beer has remained (a plus for western curryphiles), Asha’s monolithic menu reveals the true diversity of India’s culinary heritage. Three sub-menus are on offer - Chef Saleem’s kitchen rustles up traditional fare and Russell’s specialises in contemporary fusion, while Ms Asha Bhosle brings a number of her personal favourites to the table, each introduced with a fond memory.

Noting my indecision, our excellent waitress recommended the speciality kebab platter to start. Generally when you opt for mixed platters at least one item tastes tired. Not so at Asha’s - all four meaty morsels were the pinnacle of skewered splendour. I especially enjoyed the murgah malai kebab, a fine marriage of boneless chicken wrapped in cashewnut paste, yoghurt, cheese and cream and cooked in the tandoor: this was a moist, perky delight. My companion began in equally fine style with seared red snapper and garam masala radish. A lesson in the power of understatement, the lightly-grilled fish’s soft flavours were brought to the fore by a subtle fennel and coriander salad.

The main course of butter chicken with murg biryani awadh contined the trend set by the exquisite entrées. Featuring chunks of delicately smoked fowl in a nutty sauce with tomato, butter and fenugreek, the curry’s intense flavour and rich texture made for an incredibly smooth and fragrant dish. The biriani was a meal in itself; more than enough for three to share. Containing generous chunks of chicken stuffed with dried fruits and nuts and cooked with three year aged basmati rice, it was a luxurious tandoori treat.

The pan-roasted duck breast from the fusion menu was a little bit of a let-down in comparison. While the meat itself was excellent, beautifully set off by a honey and red wine jus, the mountain of supplementary cardamom curried chickpeas were dry and bland, a shame considering the high-standards set in every other department. Subtlety is the key to Asha’s success, from the refined décor to the delicate fusion of flavours found in each of the dishes we savoured. Come in vindaloo, your time is up.

By Rob Orchard