Golestan in Garhoud, Dubai - Restaurant Reviews

Golestan

When we were seated a comfortable distance from a soulful Iranian musician perched on a stage adjacent to the languid trickle of a serene water feature, we were suitably impressed by the authenticity of our surroundings Discuss this article

It’s often the danger with restaurants like this. As we were led past painstakingly carved dark wooden divides and beautifully arranged mosaic finishes, we were instantly struck by the attention to detail. When we were seated a comfortable distance from a soulful Iranian musician perched on a stage adjacent to the languid trickle of a serene water feature, we were suitably impressed by the authenticity of our surroundings. Yet, although each soft, metallic plunk of the hammered dulcimer resonated with Persian verisimilitude, we couldn’t help but wonder whether the food at this recently opened Iranian restaurant was going to be anywhere near as credible as the decor.

Our first moment of apprehension was followed by another minor scare when the waiter tried to peddle the wares of the buffet instead of the à la carte menu. Perhaps the buffet was every bit as splendid as the interior, but by now we were determined to find out what this place was really made of. So in a restaurant that, to all intents and purposes, aims to celebrate its ethnic authenticity, our suspicions were piqued by the waiter’s recommendations for our starters: Greek salad and chicken soup. As it transpired, with a huge gathering of garden-fresh green leaves, sweet and juicy tomatoes, crumbly feta cheese and midnight-black olives, the salad was superb. And the soup, while unspectacular, returned generous nuggets of chicken in a creamy broth. But to really test Golestan’s Persian credentials, I plumped for the traditional mirza ghasemi, and was delighted by the pureed aubergine and garlic, which had been lullabied into soft sweetness under a fluffy omelette blanket.

We’d mopped up everything with a seemingly inexhaustible supply of fresh flatbreads, which were constantly being slapped and tossed into a glowing oven for all to see. Then, on plates as long as Persian dhows, our barbecued mains sailed up to the table. My prawn kebab boasted an army of robust shrimps, which were richly tasty but lacking in moisture. In contrast, my friend’s chicken wings were so dewy and tender that the flutter of an eyelash would have left the bones bare. Both dishes were complemented by a vibrant green salad and crispy potato wedges, which went some way to confirming Golestan’s dedication to keeping it real.

My friend’s Iranian ice cream and falooda was a ruckus of creamy lumps, icy shards and pistachio pebbles as rugged as the Caucasus. And with cubes of baklava and slabs of peanut-crammed caramel among the offerings, my platter of traditional Iranian sweets was perfect for nibbling on between puffs of the cinnamon and coffee-tinged fruit cocktail shisha. Which all contributed to the fact that – just like the food, decor and wonderfully evocative Persian music at Golestan – our satisfaction was completely genuine.

The bill (for two)
Chicken soup Dhs12
Mirza ghasemi Dhs20
Greek salad Dhs20
Prawn kebab Dhs60
Jojeh ba ostokhan chicken wings Dhs40
Iranian ice cream & falodeh Dhs18
Traditional Iranian sweet platter Dhs12
Total (excluding service) Dhs182