China Club

We were welcomed into the fold by a basket of slippery-but-worth-getting-to-grips-with siew mai dumplings, which I must confess had to be lanced through the gizzards with a single chopstick 2 Reviews

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‘I would never want to belong to any club that would have someone like me as a member.’ This beautifully absurd neurotic witticism from Groucho Marx hustled into mind as I entered The China Club. Clearly, I thought as we were shown to our seats under the fading 1970s-style lampshades that circled the ceiling, this is a restaurant and not a club. And, since we were the only diners present, it initially became apparent that, even if this were a club, it wasn’t exactly over-subscribed. But as the evening unfolded, and the escalating babble of guests started to drown the clicking of chopsticks above steaming plates, we began to feel part of something a bit special.

We were welcomed into the fold by a basket of slippery-but-worth-getting-to-grips-with siew mai dumplings, which I must confess had to be lanced through the gizzards with a single chopstick. With soft wonton bundles, tender prawn meat and a dainty little crown of crab roe, they were well worth a poke, but they were merely an introduction to the Peking duck, which was ceremoniously shredded, arranged and wrapped at our table. Each delicate parcel contained just enough moist meat, fresh cucumber, spring onion and rich hoi sin sauce to ensure that all of them were suitably dispatched.

Our affinity with The China Club intensified as more people filed in, and more food was wheeled out. The deep-fried cod arrived in dark crisp curls that broke apart to reveal soft white flakes of tender fish eclipsed by a sultry black pepper sauce. Then there was a gloriously warming stew of Szechwan eggplant, which was caramelised to a suggestion of sweetness yet still pleasingly savoury. But it was the boiled lamb in Szechwan sauce that garnered within us a stronger sense of belonging. The substantial slices of finespun flesh fell apart like a lover spurned, but exploded in wild tantrums of intense flavour. Only the seafood fried rice, with its occasionally chewy nuggets, could come anywhere near dashing our newfound enthusiasm.

Our ambition when it came to ordering desserts far outweighed our capacity to eat them. The freshly cut fruits would have satisfied both of us, but such was my conversion to The China Club’s cause, I had no choice but to investigate the enticingly named treasure box. The waiter stifled a chuckle as he hauled it over to the table, and dramatically raised the lid to reveal a model village of doughy Chinese treats, creamy cheesecake wedges and, yes, more fresh fruit. But our minds were already made up.

We like China Club. There’s no membership fee and no awkward initiation ceremony. You don’t have to wait for an invite and there’s no humiliating selection process. The China Club is open to everyone who appreciates fine Chinese food and great service in a relaxed and informal atmosphere. Isn’t it about time you joined them?

The bill (for two)
3x Evian Dhs75
Siew mai dim sum Dhs28
Half Peking duck Dhs110
Cod in black pepper sauce Dhs82
Boiled lamb Szechwan Dhs64
Szechwan eggplant Dhs34
Seafood rice Dhs48
Freshly cut fruits Dhs24
China Club treasure box Dhs78
Total (including service) Dhs543

The China Club, Radisson SAS Dubai Deira Creek Hotel (04 205 7333). Open daily 12.30pm-3pm, 7.30pm-11pm. All major credit cards accepted.

• Previous reviews
  • 17 March,2009- reviewed by Time Out Dubai staff
  • 26 March,2008- reviewed by Jeremy Lawrence
  • 31 October,2007- reviewed by TimeOut Dubai Staff
  • 12 March,2007- reviewed by Time Out Dubai Staff
  • 29 April,2006- reviewed by Time Out Dubai
  • 29 December,2005- reviewed by Matthew Lee
  • 01 June,2004- reviewed by Rob Orchard
  • 01 February,2004- reviewed by Rob Orchard
  • 01 July,2003- reviewed by Rob Orchard

Time Out reviews restaurants anonymously and pays for meals. Of course, we cannot guarantee the accuracy or independence of user reviews.