Palm Grill

You’ve got Papa John on the piano tinkling the ivories, playing the perfect background music to your exquisite meal. Discuss this article

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You’ve got Papa John on the piano tinkling the ivories, playing the perfect background music to your exquisite meal. Start with the tomato and olive soufflé. It’s delightfully bubbly with a muffin-like consistency, oozing liquid at the touch of a fork. Also impressive is the asparagus salad with peppercorns. It’s presented in teepee fashion, with stalks of asparagus meeting at a point over tiny shiitake mushrooms, crispy auburn lettuce and grilled mixed peppers enlivened by punchy vinaigrette.

Steak wise, the two-inch thick sirloin is jetblack- crusted and of monumental juiciness. Equally wondrous is the lamb confit with chops, a circular portion of juicy minced meat, soaked in a tangy lime sauce and hidden beneath a rich slather of potato mash, alongside two generous chops on a bed of green beans and tomatoes.

After such a meaty feast, the desserts are harder to swallow. The apple tartin with espresso ice cream is incredibly bitter, with a charred, burnt flavour only slightly relieved by a cooling portion of ice cream. It won’t, however, sully an outstanding meal.

• Previous reviews
  • 30 March,2009- reviewed by Time Out Dubai staff
  • 26 March,2008- reviewed by Time Out Dubai Staff
  • 17 October,2007- reviewed by TimeOut Dubai Staff
  • 12 March,2007- reviewed by Time Out Dubai Staff
  • 15 November,2006- reviewed by Time Out Dubai Staff
  • 01 May,2004- reviewed by Rob Orchard

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