The canal-side setting and theatrical entertainment mean a booking at Pai Thai is always a valuable addition to the Dubai restaurant scene. If possible, opt for the terrace (after arriving on one of Al Qasr hotel’s abras, or at the very least, one of its golf buggies) and enjoy the ‘fawn lep’ (aka the fingernails dance) and soothing traditional Thai music. Once you manage to take your eyes off the entertainment and the location, the menu is not to be scoffed at either, especially the Dhs750 Seafood Indulge option. But fret not, the rest of the dishes are only very slightly overpriced. And the standard is also solid: the green papaya prawn starter is refreshing, the seafood spring rolls are satisfactory, while the red duck curry is flavourful. With Pai Thai open and crammed every night, Dubai’s other Thai restaurants have a lot of work to do.