With its colonial-esque high ceilings, wood panelling and huge windows, Bice is one of the grander places in which to enjoy Italian food in Dubai 41 Reviews
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From Time Out Dubai Eating Out 2007
With its colonial-esque high ceilings, wood panelling and huge windows, Bice is one of the grander places in which to enjoy Italian food in Dubai – think glitzy ristorante rather than cosy cucina. By and large the food is as grandiose as the surroundings – dishes are built around well-to-do meats (the chef’s clearly a big veal fan) and hulking seafood and even the simpler pasta dishes are studded with truffles or wild mushrooms. The results are rich and, by and large, satisfying.
The tortelli offers a smattering of dense ricotta and spinach parcels cuddled in a creamy white truffle sauce and topped with a potent black truffle brunoise. The grilled Atlantic turbot steak is a grand fillet but could do with some citrus to enhance the meaty flavours. There are occasional letdowns with the starters – the crab cakes lack both moisture and subtlety – but the sweets find Bice back on sure footing; the molten charms of the chocolate soufflé could turn the heads of the most dedicated dessert dodger.
If there’s a problem it’s in the tables. In keeping with the majestic feel they are huge, but too often you find yourself yelling at your dining companion, particularly if you’re seated near the in-house pianist. Still, for a stately celebration of high class Italian eats (with price tags to match), Bice’s a treat.
By Time Out Dubai Staff
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