Sophisticated Italian food in Jumeirah 41 Reviews
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From Time Out Dubai Eating Out 2008
Bice may be located past the slightly outdated lobby of the Hilton hotel, but it oozes Italian sophistication. Inspired by Beatrice (‘Bice’ to her friends) Ruggini’s 1926 family kitchen, the brand has spread the ‘cucina’ love across the globe, and now boasts locations everywhere from New York, Milan and Tokyo to Dubai.
With its glossy wooden floors, black and white prints, high colonial ceilings (and, fortunately, now more evenly spaced tables), we can only assume the Ruggini family were among Italy’s highest society (or that our imaginations are overactive). The menu itself matches the grand interior, bucking the Italian trend by offering more starters than pasta, and more meat dishes than pizzas.
But they do still offer a near-comical number of (year-specific) olive oils, vinegars and assorted other condiments, all carted about on a special, over-loaded trolley. Dip warm bread into the olive oil while you wait for your starters. And you’ll certainly enjoy them when they arrive – fresh and light bresaola comes with a dollop of buffalo mozzarella, proudly crowned by a cherry tomato.
The appetisers are just the right size, something a lot of restaurateurs in Dubai get wrong. Juicy jumbo prawns and scallops hit the spot, as do the mains, such as the moist, rosy rare tuna steak, balanced atop potatoes and colourful vegetables.
They arrive in manageable portions; and it’s unlikely you’ll leave any on the plate. Finish off with generous scoops of zesty fruit sorbet and mille feuille – which includes an extra brownie that could easily be a dish in its own right. And with size being so important, our digestif tea came with a tower of biscuits and chocolates, helping us to reach the conclusion that a meal at Beatrice’s extremely stylish kitchen is a pleasant one.
By Jeremy Lawrence
- Previous reviews
- 23 April,2014- reviewed by Time Out Dubai staff
- 15 April,2013- reviewed by Time Out Dubai staff
- 13 November,2012- reviewed by Penelope Walsh
- 22 March,2012- reviewed by Time Out Dubai staff
- 16 November,2011- reviewed by Oliver Robinson
- 24 March,2011- reviewed by Time Out Dubai staff
- 29 July,2010- reviewed by Time Out Dubai Staff
- 06 April,2010- reviewed by Time Out Dubai staff
- 19 March,2009- reviewed by Time Out Dubai staff
- 16 February,2009- reviewed by Daisy Carrington
- 28 January,2008- reviewed by James Brennan
- 12 March,2007- reviewed by Time Out Dubai Staff
- 17 May,2006- reviewed by Time Out Dubai
- 01 August,2004- reviewed by Rob Orchard
- 01 September,2003- reviewed by Rob Orchard
- 01 March,2003- reviewed by Rob Orchard
- 01 January,2002- reviewed by Time Out Dubai Staff
- 01 November,2001- reviewed by Time Out Dubai Staff
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