Dubai’s internationally-themed restaurants aren’t always blessed with the gift of authenticity 9 Reviews
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Dubai’s internationally-themed restaurants aren’t always blessed with the gift of authenticity. Yet walk into the Manhattan Grill, with its walls of shining chrome, dark wood surfaces and sultry piped jazz music, and the illusion of being in a high-class New York eatery is so flawless that you half expect to spot Woody Allen, wisecracking over a plate of alfalfa sprouts in the corner. Start by digging into a brandied lobster bisque – a rich, saline, brick-red brew, topped with gossamer-fine froth, or a strong, meaty foie gras atop a delicately-arranged tower of potato, wickedly-spiced black pudding and chunks of lobster tail.
It’s hard to completely spoil a good steak, but to bring out the best in it requires quite masterful skill; and it’s a gift the Manhattan Grill’s chef can confidently boast to possessing. The American, smokily charred to perfection on the outside, yields meat so rich and juicy that it would be sensational even without the gently piquant red wine sauce or sweet chutney. The rare porterhouse steak, is a peppery masterpiece, seared to retain all its viscerally juicy goodness and coated in buttered mushroom sauce. Sidedishes are fittingly understated – a potato-and- chive mash and some strong, creamy spinach-flecked with veal bacon.
You may be convinced that such magic can’t last, but you’ll be wrong, and we warn against succumbing to the urge to lick the bowl of a zingy berry gratin coated in custard. Of course, this kind of cuisine doesn’t come cheap (and nor does a bottle of their excellent house wine). But if you want to taste steak as it should be cooked, then this fantastic restaurant isn’t merely recommended, it’s essential.
Time Out Dubai,
- Previous reviews
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- 23 April,2014- reviewed by Time Out Dubai staff
- 10 April,2013- reviewed by Time Out Dubai staff
- 21 March,2012- reviewed by Time Out Dubai staff
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