The Park Hyatt's a lá carte brunch puts our inner peace to the test 15 Reviews
Thai Kitchen’s hot pot
‘Juhm jihm’ is a speciality from Esarn (Chef Suppatra’s home province). Dhs150 per person, minimum two people Timings: 7pm-midnight (Sunday, Monday, Saturday)
A masterclass in Thai cuisine. Advance reservation necessary. From Dhs350 (food and soft drinks); from Dhs525 (with a glass of bubbly or grape) Timings: Noon-3pm (Saturday)
For those who can’t afford the Traiteur brunch (which takes place in the same hotel), Thai Kitchen offers an affordable alternative, with tasty Thai fare delivered straight to your table. Dhs235 (soft drinks), Dhs295 (house beverages), Dhs370 ( sparkling grape) Timings: 12.30pm-4pm (Friday)
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It was late in the afternoon when a solitary plate of two perfectly cooked fish cakes was presented to my friends across the table. Each disc, a dark golden brown, was moist and flavoursome. The only problem was that we hadn’t ordered them. We were, however, waiting in great anticipation for third helpings of the braised duck noodle soup, grilled beef with basil, and prawns in pandan leaves.
Three hours earlier, dressed in our Friday best, my friends and I entered the Park Hyatt’s impressive lobby, strolled across the muted blue circular Persian carpet, glided along the marbled, airy corridors and entered Thai Kitchen. Greeted by serene, smiling faces, we were directed to our table, passing three cooking stations where the chefs were busy at work chopping, frying, grilling, and steaming market fresh vegetables, seafood and meat. Despite the frenzy of the kitchens, everything else was calm, almost Zen, you might say. There was not a salad or a dessert station to be seen. No, this is not your regular Friday brunch with a free-for-all buffet. Here it’s all a lá carte, and all the dishes are made to order – a blessing and a curse, as we were to discover.
The food is simply amazing, with each dish made small enough for you to sample the exquisite flavours without filling you up. The spicy pomelo salad zinged with citrus and kicked with peppers. The bite of the sour pork sausage stuffed with whole green chillies, was softened with ginger and sweet basil. The shrimp toast with sesame was lightly fried to crispy perfection, and the roast duck curry was saturated in the most moreish spicy sauce, thick with coconut milk.
It was the braised duck noodle soup, grilled beef with basil, and prawns in pandan leaves, however, which kept us coming back for more. The only problem was the wait. Our inner peace began to fray, as our patience grew thinner than Lindsay Lohan’s alibi. It was around this time that the fish cakes arrived, and as we stared disbelievingly at the table, our waitress informed us that the kitchen was closed. When we politely inquired about our missing food, she said ‘oh well’ with a smile and an aura of calm acceptance.
We consoled ourselves with the desserts we’d been thoughtful enough to pre-order and they’d been kind enough to make. After refreshing our palate with melon, jackfruit and papaya – and getting our sugar hit with several servings of sticky rice with mango – we were back on the path to enlightenment. And next time, we’ll be a little savvier when ordering. Don’t let the ambience lull you into a contented daze. Grab a menu quick smart, get your orders in early, and dig in. You can hold your belly and meditate later, while watching the other diners scrabble for last orders.
- Previous reviews
- 10 April,2013- reviewed by Time Out Dubai staff
- 22 March,2012- reviewed by Time Out Dubai staff
- 28 March,2011- reviewed by Time Out Dubai staff
- 06 April,2010- reviewed by Time Out Dubai staff
- 30 March,2009- reviewed by Time Out Dubai staff
- 26 March,2008- reviewed by Jeremy Lawrence
- 12 March,2007- reviewed by Time Out Dubai Staff
- 30 August,2006- reviewed by Time Out Dubai
- 29 April,2006- reviewed by Time Out Dubai
- 19 December,2005- reviewed by Matthew Lee
- 25 August,2005- reviewed by Matthew Lee
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