The Hilton Dubai Jumeirah may not be Dubai’s swankiest hotel, but it’s home to a gem of an Italian. Part of the longstanding upmarket Milanese chain, Bice’s classy but casual vibe, attentive service and, crucially, its food, are all top notch. Rich wooden floors, spacious tables, subdued lighting and an unobtrusive pianist make this a good choice for romantics, although the atmosphere is vibrant enough to suit lively groups. Tuck into warm foccacia and fresh tomatoes as you peruse the extensive menus (the regular standard menu features traditional safe bets including risottos, pizzas and homemade pastas and mains and there’s also a monthly promotional selection).

Don’t be afraid to heed the advice of the well-informed waiters. We were impressed with the king crab steak and watercress salad – a light and tasty start to our meal, as well as the oven-baked see bass with fresh spinach and porcini mushrooms, which was cooked and seasoned to utter perfection. With main courses both beautifully presented and generously proportioned, squeezing in dessert was a challenge, but we had to test out our waiter’s claim that Bice’s tiramisu is the best in town. Is it? We can’t say (we haven’t tasted them all) but our bowl, like all our plates beforehand, was scraped clean.