This fine steakhouse on the uppermost floor of Jumeirah Beach Hotel is so dedicated to South American sass that a pair of tangoing dancers accompany your meal, whether you like it or not. The warmth of its Argentine dark woods and reds extends to the staff, who are friendly and well-versed in the menu – essential here as there a few items that go unexplained (would a rookie know what cassava is without asking, for example? Note: It’s fried yucca). Onto the food, and the chorizo and empanadas are safe bets for starters, although a cheese fondue packed with chili makes for a rewarding risk. Mains straddle the line between ‘good’ and ‘great’. La Parilla’s Argentine tenderloin is an acceptably tender cut, but doesn’t hit the high notes of the sublime steaks we’ve sampled in Argentina proper; still, it’s among the better moments for meat-lovers in this city. Sides veer away from the steakhouse’s standard fries and onion rings into more traditional territory, such as creamy mash with fava beans and suitably crunchy cassava. Where La Parilla really excels, however, is its fish dishes – the best meal that we’ve sampled here was sweetly nuanced seabass, paired with a silky pumpkin mash. As is expected of Dubai, you’ll pay the price for a good meal here, but it’s actually one of the more reasonable swish joints in town.