Media City may not be the obvious choice for a night out, but Certo in the Radisson SAS is working hard to change that. 68 Reviews
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Media City may not be the obvious choice for a night out, but Certo in the Radisson SAS is working hard to change that. Situated on the ground floor, with a fairly uninspiring view of the road and building outside, it has been designed to focus inwards instead, where an impressive glass wine rack fills the centre of the restaurant from floor to ceiling.
Once you’re seated, a stylish wooden board of olive oil-drizzled ciabatta, white bean paste and roasted garlic cloves is set down and then regularly replenished by extremely attentive waiters. From the starters, a vast pattern of carpaccio slices proves meltingly thin and full flavoured and combines wonderfully with crisp rocket and fierce shards of parmesan. The mezzancolli of large prawns and marinaded courgette works well and is enhanced by some peppery leaves and a sharp dressing.
If you can’t resist dipping into the pasta menu, they’re quick to agree to some half portions (at a generously discounted price). The parpadelle with strips of lean roast duck and broccoli is fresh and surprisingly delicate, while the black tagliolini with tender grilled squid is perfectly cooked and highly filling, though its simplicity might well become monotonous in a full-size portion. The tagliata is faultlessly prepared but perhaps rather plain. Flagged up as a healthy dish, the lean slabs of juicy beef, pan-roasted baby potatoes and heap of fresh rocket are all of excellent quality but as a combination lack a certain something to liven things up. The calzone is a more fattening but more satisfying choice – a glorious pillow of crispy-edged dough, gooey cheese, ham and fresh mushrooms.
The pastry, dense whipped cream and rich chocolate sauce of the profiteroles is perhaps an indulgence too far at the end of the meal and fails to offer anything out of the ordinary. The light and creamy – if surprisingly firmlyset – panna cotta with a sweet berry sauce makes for a far more gentle finish.
It may not have the romance of the beach or a panoramic sweep of a view, but Certo is too good to be restricted just to occasional business dinners.
- Previous reviews
- 23 April,2014- reviewed by Time Out Dubai staff
- 15 April,2013- reviewed by Time Out Dubai staff
- 22 March,2012- reviewed by Time Out Dubai staff
- 03 November,2011- reviewed by Oliver Robinson
- 24 March,2011- reviewed by Time Out Dubai staff
- 06 April,2010- reviewed by Time Out Dubai staff
- 19 March,2009- reviewed by Time Out Dubai staff
- 02 February,2009- reviewed by Daisy Carrington
- 26 March,2008- reviewed by Jeremy Lawrence
- 28 November,2007- reviewed by James Brennan
- 04 April,2007- reviewed by Time Out Dubai Staff
- 12 March,2007- reviewed by Time Out Dubai Staff
- 05 April,2006- reviewed by Matthew Lee
- 30 January,2006- reviewed by Matthew Lee
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