Bar food and killer cocktails 14 Reviews
From Time Out Dubai Eating Out 2008
Essentially this place is a happy idiot’s conception of a 1950s American tiki bar. Obviously, these joints are well known for their sugar-cane-derived drinkables served in a variety of outrageous vessels, ranging from ceramic skulls to barrels.
Ask for a table within viewing distance of the house band and wait for the food, which turns out to be a mixture of Polynesian with a bizarre fusion of takeaway Chinese, crossed with middling American steakhouse staples. The oysters are as fresh and plump as a cheeky walrus, but quite clearly shucked by a chef whose mind was wandering from the task in hand.
The appealing-looking gumbo of a chicken wonton soup is too thin, while the chilli beef with Chinese vegetables is plentiful, but overly salty, and the duck pancakes a little too chewy and tough. The prices, on this side of the meal, seem unfairly excessive – even bottles of water are expensive.
Still, the bonkers surroundings and unfailingly eccentric atmosphere make for a pleasantly genial haze. It’s a shame about the food, though.By Jeremy Lawrence
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