Begin with the smoked heart of salmon, which consists of five substantial strips of firm, fresh fish that look like pink piano keys and dissolve in the mouth with a smooth density made all the more intense by a herby cream cheese. 29 Reviews
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From Time Out Dubai Eating Out 2007
The second Salmontini – the original is in downtown Beirut – is a refined, elegant and fully licenced restaurant. Its simple yet sophisticated interior – upholstered violet and apricot blushes, symmetrical pine finishes and cool grey slate – creates a cosy nook from which to observe pre-school kamikaze beginners hurtle down snowy inclines in miniature dinghies at Ski Dubai. And it specialises, not surprisingly, in the preparation, presentation and degustation of salmon.
Whether it’s royal, red, pink or silver; smoked, poached, grilled or cured, Salmontini – aka Le Maison Du Saumon – can leap to the task. Begin with the smoked heart of salmon, which consists of five substantial strips of firm, fresh fish that look like pink piano keys and dissolve in the mouth with a smooth density made all the more intense by a herby cream cheese. This is the piscine equivalent of wagyu beef – dizzyingly flavoursome and so tender it renders your jaw obsolete.
The salmon tartare, with tremors of zesty lemon, piquant capers and spicy green peppercorns, is almost as good. The intriguingly named ‘unilateral salmon’ is interesting, as one side of an impressive fillet is grilled and the other left tantalisingly, and intentionally, raw. This is bolstered by spaghetti-style courgette and carrot, discs of crispy saffron-infused rice and a caramelised endive. The salmon with pesto main with fresh green tagliatelle is predictable in comparison.
The desserts, which don’t involve salmon, aren’t as exciting – don’t bother with either the stodgy apple tart or the dull sorbet. Nevertheless, Salmontini – with its fine fish, agreeable ambience and wintry windows – offers yet another truly unique experience that, as yet, can only be found in Dubai.
By Time Out Dubai Staff
Time Out Dubai,
- Previous reviews
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