The idea here is rather like Indian tapas – tandoori items are cooked and served in single pieces, so you can taste a range of delicacies from a menu that changes daily. Main courses are a little more substantial, but one year on, Iz is beginning to understand the importance of serving a rice dish at the same time as a curry, instead of as and when each dish is cooked.
Logistical matters aside, Iz remains a beautiful and stylish place to experience a variety of flavours, textures and cooking styles in one sitting. The salmon tikka is moist, delicate and full of subtle flavour, while the lamb chop is perfectly pink, tender and agreeably spiced.
The tandoori items are excellent, but they’re far from cheap – for example, you’ll pay Dhs45 for two modestly sized scallops that look a little lost and forlorn without any garnish on the white rectangular plate. The rather more robust murgh makhani main course is a mild and velvety curry sauce crowded with chicken pieces, which the fluffy basmati rice and cumin seeds of the jeera pilau complement ably.
If you finish off with a tart strawberry kulfi, you’ll be glad of the tapas-sized portion, but rather less so, perhaps, of the main course-style price, which remains the enduring problem here.
When many of the great Indian restaurants in Dubai are so cheap, do we really need to pay the prices at Iz?