Kisaku
Tokyo-inspired Japanese restaurant in Deira 16 Reviews
From Time Out Dubai Eating Out 2008
According to Kisaku, its executive chef, Takahashi, began his career toiling in one of the best restaurants in Tokyo, mastering the art of Nihon-style food preparation, almost 40 years ago.
At his current Dubai venture, the maki-maestro can be spotted manning the sushi counter that dominates the restaurant’s back wall, elbow-deep in a bowl of vinegared sticky rice or applying a lime green glob of wasabi to an unsuspecting sliver of raw salmon, all the while chatting amiably to guests and supervising his young staff.
From the all-embracing menu, order the asparagus with soya bean sauce to munch on while you wait for the other dishes to arrive. The tempura moriawase, a mix of crunchy vegetables, fish and prawns, is deep-fried in a batter as fluffy as a blow-dried bunny, and the breaded shrimp and vegetables of the kushi moriawase are just as welcoming.
The glutinous udon noodles are stir-fried with vegetables and slivers of pork, and you and your dining partner are sure to squabble over the expertly sliced shards of salmon, tuna, squid and rolled omelette that lay over a bowl of sticky rice for the chirashi don.
Things aren’t quite as contentious with the agedashi tofu – the matchbox size chunks disintegrate at the mere suggestion of a chopstick and the gravy is a little on the insipid side – but it’s a minor glitch. To end the meal on a high, order two scoops of goma ice-cream, rendered gunmetal grey as a result of the crushed black sesame seeds that have been used to flavour the dessert.
The semi-sweet trio of gooey mochi (pummelled rice cakes sprinkled with kinako – a gold-coloured soya-bean powder) is also a treat.
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