If you’re sick of cavernous, empty hotel restaurants and seek a mid-week pizza and grape fix in a bustling environment, Prego’s is a safe bet, but it’s not one that’s going to wow. Based in its hotel’s lobby, the first thing that strikes a visitor is the salumeria, which features an impressive array of Parmas, but frostiness persists beyond the cold cuts – the decor is straight out of a hotel interior design textbook, the service is at best inattentive and otherwise good Burratta mozzarella is ruined by being verging on frozen.

There are selling points, however: the menu is truly extensive – spanning more than a dozen pages it starts with cold cuts and antipasti, then pizza and pastas are covered thoroughly before mains and deserts even begin. Each dish we’ve tried here has been pleasing – risottos flavoursome (if a little mushy); pastas al dente and authentic and pizzas wood-fired and passable. Meat mains vary in quality, though the lamb chops and sea bream are impressed safe bets. Desserts are consistently good – chocolate mousses and Tiramisu move beyond textbook cuisine and have that je ne sais quoi that the restaurant overall lacks.