Enter through the lobby of the Dubai Yacht Club, ignore the trendy bunch jigging at the bar on your right and make your way into the restaurant area where you'll be greeted by a comforting air of sophistication.

Aquara manages to feel like a restaurant in its own right despite the floorspace being shared with the somewhat boisterous Cafe Bistro. The menu, tidy and adept is a predominantly European one, though illuminated by some welcome Asian touches. The hot and sour soup is a fierce and fervid affair, the tidy spicy kingfish a slightly gentler proposition where the craft and delicacy of the fillet really impress, and for the even more conservative, the surf and turf with juicy prawns and parmesan is also worth a venture. There's artistry to each dish and the chef's playful touch is evident. It's hard not to be impressed with Aquara, the food, the cosmopolitan feel, the silvery service, the reasonable prices… one way or the other, you'll be won over.