Al Fresco
Pizza, the ubiquitous Italian staple, is surprisingly one of the vast menu’s weaker contenders 3 Reviews
From Time Out Dubai Eating Out 2007
Don’t be taken in by the name. This Italian eatery is not set in an idyllic outdoor garden where the scent of fresh flowers floats through the air as the sun streams through the foliage. Instead, the restaurant is smack-bang in the middle of a hotel, encapsulated in a transparent glasshouse tunnel. Nonetheless, the elongated space manages to create a cosy atmosphere with worn furniture, lively music and a vibrant crowd, it has undeniable appeal.
Pizza, the ubiquitous Italian staple, is surprisingly one of the vast menu’s weaker contenders. Despite the roaring wood oven, they frequently arrive looking slightly anaemic and limp, with a cheap-cheddary topping rather than with the lashings of bubbling mozzarella you’d expect; watch out for the quarto fromaggi which appears to be lacking at least three of the four cheeses. That said, their seafood dishes make a visit very worthwhile. The sea bass rolled in pesto-infused crumbs is satisfyingly crunchy on the outside with a perfectly cooked and flavoursome interior. Accompanied by a delicate wafer-thin potato basket, it offers a balanced portion to ensure you leave feeling replete. Pasta lovers shouldn’t resist the spaghetti carbonara – the highlight, albeit a simple one, of any good Italian menu.
And as chance would have it, Al Fresco is one of the few Dubai-based eateries to get it just right. Reverting to the traditional method of using eggs rather than cream, this version benefits from being both delicate and feisty thanks to the flavour of the accompanying garlic, crushed black pepper and salty pancetta, offering the right amount of kick to keep it interesting. No visit is complete without tasting the tiramisu, which is fluffy enough to rival any you’ll find in Florence. Moussey, light with a delicious infusion of coffee and mascarpone, it’s a pleasant end to a largely enjoyable dining experience.
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