Hoards of families, fishermen, locals, expats – you name it – all gather at this one-time hidden gem. But the secret, it would appear, has slipped through the fishing nets. To look at, Bu Qtair is not much: it’s a shack with some plastic chairs and little else; the cutlery (if you’re lucky to find any) is mix and match; and it can be a competitive, wearying struggle to land your order. But when the fish does come, it's delectable.

The local catch is divided into shrimp, sherry and hammour, and it’s clear that everything is fresh and salubrious. It's the unique spicy curries that also keep the faithful returning. If you are happy to part with the best part of Dhs100, willing to get your hands seriously mucky and don't mind sharing your plastic table with strangers, then Bu Qtair, for all its stress, is worth it. The queues and anxious faces may tell you one thing, but it's the licked plates and full bellies afterwards that underline the restaurant’s quality.