Fish Bazaar scrubs up rather well. The walls are adorned with generic Thai images, and there is even a requisite Buddha statue at the door. This is a Thai-style fish restaurant, where guests choose their fish, how they want it cooked and what Thai sauce they want it slathered with. The staff – all relocated from the Fish Bazaar formerly at the Metropolitan Hotel – are polite and friendly, and will help you through your choices.

Try the red snapper with chilli and sweet basil, or a selection of shrimp and mussels. Mains arrive in good time (a good job since the starters aren’t up to much) and are really very good – cooked with skill in the open kitchen and complemented by exciting spicy sauces. The desserts are a letdown, though, so quit while you’re ahead and get the bill after your delicious main.