Visiting the Armani hotel is a study in slickness. However, the signature restaurant is so polished it ends up lacking soul. The oatmeal interiors are certainly a statement, but the Armani neutrals appear dated, turning the palate cold. The one great injection of life is the view into the show kitchen, which sits smack in the middle of the circular space: watching the fast-paced ballet that is a high-end cooking line fertilises plenty of dinner conversation. The food is as beige as the interiors – pastas are hand rolled and delectably fresh, but mains like monkfish are woefully under-seasoned and the burratta mozzarella starter is served cold and uninspired. While we don’t dislike this restaurant, we can’t rave about it.