For the record, the chef at Hyu is Korean. As is the manager, the waitresses and the customers. In fact, if you’re not Korean, it’s likely you’ll be the only non-Korean eating in this restaurant on any given night. This is a good thing, since the food is wonderfully authentic. Start with ever-so-sweet pumpkin purée, spinach with a sprinkling of sesame seeds, chicken frankfurters, onions and peppers marinated in a sticky sweet-and-sour sauce, and angry red kimchi. Once you’re done with these starters, a hot plate will be brought to the table and the waitress will start barbecuing choice cuts of marinated tenderloin, which can be eaten with cool lettuce before you start on a plate of glass noodles (made from powdered sweet potatoes) or the bibimbap (a sizzling stone bowl brimming with yellow rice, beef and sautéed vegetables, illuminated with red gochujang). It doesn’t take long to realise that Korean people eat at Hyu not simply because it’s authentic, but because it’s excellent as well.