The reopened Miyako, curiously stationed inbetween a hotel lobby and an ice-skating rink, is an intimate, calm, and attractive restaurant 69 Reviews
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The reopened Miyako, curiously stationed inbetween a hotel lobby and an ice-skating rink, is an intimate, calm, and attractive restaurant. The dark wood furnishings include a teppanyaki table, a sushi bar and a private dining room, and the music recalls Japanese thrillers of the ’60s. The menu is extensive but short on English-language explanation, so those unfamiliar with the cuisine will appreciate that the waitresses are well-versed in the particulars of any dish.
My friend’s meal arrived in a large red and black bento box. Her miso soup – filled with soft strips of seaweed and spongy cubes of tofu – was happily slurped, and her inari sushi (fried tofu pouches stuffed with rice), softened by rice vinegar, melted on the tongue with a near-effervescent sweetness.
In another compartment of the box, her soba noodles were spot-on in texture, and their coldness sharpened their soy-tinged flavour. There were also three pieces of nigiri sushi – tuna, red snapper and salmon – which were favourably short on wasabi and snappishly fresh. Her vegetable tempura, multi-coloured and meshed together like confetti, was not particularly exciting, but enhanced dipped in tempura sauce from a leaf-shaped saucer.
My seafood set menu came in five courses, which meant I was eating on my own for the first third of the meal. I started with a dish of pickled vegetables, with strips of celery and gorgeously sweet tamago (fried egg), then moved onto a plate of sashimi – gleaming strips of raw tuna, salmon and red snapper. A small dish of sweetly marinaded sawara fish (Spanish mackerel) was followed by a thin fishy broth in which prawns, shitake mushrooms, and spinach and cabbage rolls floated. Finally, the bulk of my meal arrived which, compared to what preceded it, was a bit of a letdown. With the notable exception of the shitake mushroom, the seafood and vegetable tempura, bejewelled with emerald stubs of batter, weren’t particularly tasty. The dish also came with miso soup, boiled rice, pickled vegetables, too-chewy squid sashimi and fruit salad.
This small selection of fresh salad undid my need for dessert, but my comparably underfed bento boxer friend craved some green tea ice cream, which was strong, cool and smooth, and served in a drinking glass. After half an hour of green tea sipping, we left satisfied by some very good, if not excellent, Japanese cuisine.By Matthew Lee
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