We eat our way through a feast of meat at new Atlantis brunch 20 Reviews
A culinary show, inspired by the freshest and tastiest handpicked ingredients. Enjoy the finest cuts of Atlantis beef, the freshest seafood, an enormous selection of starters, artisan breads and a dessert station with the sweetest temptations on earth. All this combined with Champagne, fine wines, classic cocktails and a live band playing all your favourites. Dhs485 (house beverages) Timings: 12.30pm-4pm (Friday)
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Our visit to the new Seafire brunch took place only a few weeks into its indenture, so it was a pleasant to surprise to see the party was already in full swing. The gargantuan restaurant felt sufficiently busy and lively, and the live music softened and filled the rest of the space in such a way that the welcoming ambience was lively without being rowdy. As it happens, the easy-listening cover versions of incongruously upbeat female vocalists (such as Lady Gaga), sung in a squeaky-clean falsetto by the male vocalist, became exceedingly entertaining; judging by the wide smile on his face, he was finding it just as amusing and/or embarrassing.
The brunch stations weren’t huge, but they were varied and plentiful enough. There was a decent and satisfying range of food on offer, yet, refreshingly at a Dubai brunch, it didn’t feel like an intimidating challenge to sample our way through it.
Unusually, the raw bar offered no sushi, instead presenting a small selection of plain and dressed oysters, plus tiny canapé-sized portions of fish tartare, all of which were enjoyable. The salad bar heralded a range of mixed salads and vegetable antipasti, including a simple but pleasing tomato and mozzarella salad and some lovely roast pumpkin. Nothing here was amiss, yet my friend and I found ourselves bemoaning the lack of fresh tastes. Despite the plethora of veg on offer, almost everything was so distinctly dressed, oiled, pickled and cured that the vibrant flavour of something ‘untreated’ seemed to be screaming out to us.
The selection of meats was, disappointingly, laid out like a self-service canteen, yet the disappointment stopped there. Amid the meaty gluttony we inflicted on ourselves in the name of research, the barely cooked, rare-as-it-comes beef Wellington was beautifully juicy, the lamb chops were moist and tender, and the selection of steaks (striploin and ribeye) were also well prepared, if a touch too greasy and salty. Unsurprisingly for a steakhouse, the fish options were minimal, but there was at least an attempt to offer something, with some decent-enough coquille saint jacques-style scallops baked in the shell with breadcrumbs, and some uninspiring-looking fish fillets.
The tucked-away cheese room had a small but interesting selection of continental cheese, while the dessert station would have made Marie Antoinette go weak at the knees. There wasn’t a wealth of choice, but the ostentatious enticement of three-tiered cakes and colourful gateaux tasted as good as they looked.
Drinks were brought to our table, and the service, both at this end and behind the buffet stations, proved to be friendly and knowledgeable. My only bugbear was the lack of a soft drinks package – and the price in general. Regardless of what you choose to wash your food down, the cuisine alone doesn’t warrant the price – and because the grape is limited to basic ‘house’ selections, neither do the beverages.By Penelope Walsh
Time Out Dubai,
- Previous reviews
- 10 April,2013- reviewed by Time Out Dubai staff
- 21 March,2012- reviewed by Time Out Dubai staff
- 12 September,2011- reviewed by Time Out Dubai staff
- 28 March,2011- reviewed by Time Out Dubai staff
- 23 March,2011- reviewed by Time Out Dubai staff
- 05 April,2010- reviewed by Time Out Dubai staff
- 30 March,2009- reviewed by Time Out Dubai staff
- 28 October,2008- reviewed by Daisy Carrington
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