In the seven months since our last visit to Al Muntaha there have been major changes; not to the fun-but-garish décor that we all secretly love, but to the menu. The pricing structure has remained fairly constant – you may still need a bank loan to pay off any excessive indulgences, especially an extravagant foray into the wine list – but the food is now fabulous.

Dining in this skyward restaurant is an extraordinary experience not only because of the location; we declare this to be a destination for serious foodies – at last. The menu has skilfully been simplified and the presentation of the food is not pretentious. All the combinations and flavours are stunning and the menu is bursting with many old favourites presented in a contemporary and upbeat style. Toques off to the chefs for bringing the food up the standard that we have been craving.

We began with a basket of outstanding tomato, olive and rye breads, all clearly the work of dedicated bakers with a passion for their craft. My yellow fin tuna salad was an upbeat rendition of the classic salad Niçoise. The generous medallion of meltingly tender marinated tuna was complemented by crunchy green beans, warm potato dice, sweet tomato fillets and perfectly cooked quail eggs all with a delicate lacquer of fresh-tasting basil dressing.

The Caesar salad with lobster was another triumph; an artful compilation of all the essential components, that bore no resemblance to the usual bowl of lettuce and soft croutons. Tiny leaves from the heart of Romaine lettuces, bound in creamy dressing were held in a ring of crisped bread with Parmesan. The lobster, served in an equal proportion to the salad, comprised a tempura claw resting on a disc of lobster mayonnaise fragrant with fresh dill.

We awaited the arrival of our main courses with heightened anticipation. My ‘risotto prima verde’ was not only a delicious dish but also a witty interpretation of the Italian ‘primavera’ (meaning spring vegetables). It was creamy and laden with green (verde) vegetables with just a gentle crunch to them. The accompanying warm goat’s cheese in a mantle of crisp brioche crumbs was an explosion of molten flavour, and the roquette with tomato vinaigrette added a touch of lively colour. My companion’s pot-roasted loin of veal came with pan-fried sweetbreads, a triangle of potato and celeriac dauphinoise, crunchy green beans and a sherry vinegar jus. The combination worked together perfectly.

Next it was the turn of the pastry chef to meet the challenge laid down by the first two courses. The caramelised apple brioche tatin with lavender ice cream was delicious. The Cranachan ice cream with lemon tart and wild berries was brilliant; a great interpretation of this heavy and traditional Scottish dish of cream and oatmeal. The lemon tart was delicate and at the same time beautifully zesty and the red and black berries added a note of colour and freshness.

We could not fault any aspect of this meal and applaud the chefs for their efforts. The service was flawless and friendly and we were almost made to feel like regulars. We highly recommend Al Muntaha for its great food, and welcome it into the league of Dubai’s finest restaurants.