Burj Al Hamam in Beach Park Plaza Centre, Jumeirah, Dubai - Restaurant Reviews

Burj Al Hamam

A reliable chain from Lebanon proves a bit of a gamble in Dubai 8 Reviews

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I’m always wary in Dubai when I’m told I need a reservation. ‘One is most necessary,’ it is often said, but when I get to the restaurant in question, it’s half-empty (and that’s on a good night). So I was surprised, after being given the requisite line, to find that Burj Al Hamam was actually full, even though (or perhaps because) it was Eid.

Perhaps I shouldn’t have found it so flooring to see so many busy tables, as the restaurant has made quite a name for itself in the Middle East. Burj Al Hamam has been a Lebanese staple for 50 years, and has since opened up branches in Jordon and Kuwait, with a second Dubai outlet slated for Dubai Mall. At the start of our meal, the waiters seemed jovial, perhaps feeding off the energy of the crowded room. One walked around brandishing tongs and freshly baked pittas (another clue that this restaurant might be a cut above).

It was the menu, however, that revealed this wasn’t going to be your standard baba ganoush joint. While all the old favourites were there, there were a refreshing number of dips and starters that tend to be underrepresented. We skipped all the usuals, forgoing homous and opting instead for medardara, a cold dish of lentils and rice that proved refreshingly light. I am of the belief that crispy onions improve, well, pretty much everything, and their addition made the dish all the more addictive. Unfortunately, for all its flavour, the combination was hurt by the fact that it was served excessively cold, as were all the other cold mezze we ordered. Unfortunately, a plate of barbounia – a somewhat bland, soupy mix of white beans and tomato sauce – was too dull to carry the weight of the frigid temperature.

The hot mezze didn’t face this problem, and as a result, were more enjoyable. One standout was the seafood kibbeh, which was light with a rich minced interior. As usually happens with Lebanese mezze, we found ourselves full, causing us to wait in fear of the arrival of our mains.

We need not have worried: there was a prolonged wait, which only ended when our waiter finally remembered our existence.

‘Would you like dessert?’ he asked. I debated skipping the main, but felt it was worth trying, if only for the sake of review. Anyway, it had sounded brilliant: akraas naanaa, described as grilled, finely ground meat stuffed with onions and spices, and sautéed with lemon. The reality, however, was a bit grim. The waiter was exerting way too much effort cutting the meat in two, and when I tasted it, I understood why: for finely minced meat, the texture was disconcertingly tough (think shoe leather). I put the knife and fork down after the first bite, feeling guilty that a cow’s life had gone to waste.

As we were ready to call it an evening, the waiters brought us dessert on the house to make up for the long wait. The best confection was the osmalieh: a crumbly dough topped with a subtle, creamy custard, pistachios and rose-orange blossom syrup. Other pastries were decent, but certainly not the best in Dubai.

Burj Al Hamam defines what it means to be ‘a gamble’, and really you’re just as likely to find a dish that displeases as one that delights. And, though the venue still needs to sort out a few basic hiccups (perhaps it’s best to try them out on a less busy night), they’re still worth a visit, if, at the very least, to expand your definition of Lebanese fare.

The bill (for two)
1x Moudardara Dhs19
1x Balila Dhs19
1x Seafood kibbeh Dhs31
1x Akrass naanaa Dhs41
1x Large water Dhs25
1x Osmalieh Dhs33
1x Knefeh bil kashta Dhs33
Service Dhs20.10
Total Dhs221.10