Focaccia

When Italian decor is attempted anywhere other than Italy, the result usually goes one of two ways: wonderfully cosy or downright tacky 2 Reviews

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From Time Out Dubai Eating Out 2007

When Italian decor is attempted anywhere other than Italy, the result usually goes one of two ways: wonderfully cosy or downright tacky. Focaccia manages the first, with only the odd sprinkling of the second. Even then, the framed pictures of pineapples, the candelabra and the mock library nook only add to its charm, as do the waiting staff that make you feel even more at home. With the view onto the palm-fringed promenade bordering the Creek, it’s exceedingly pleasant watching Dubai dwellers doing what very few of us ever do here – walk. You can’t help but feel inspired to do the same, especially after the meal that is to follow.

The menu is an eclectic mix of Italian staples like gnocchi with four cheeses, with some experiments thrown in such as the beetroot risotto with hammour. For starters, the bresaola with deep-fried gnocchi is mouth-wateringly tasty, with the saltiness of the cured meat beautifully balanced by the sharp cheese and the peppery zing of the rocket. The mozzarella and tomato salad, meanwhile, is simple but effective. The mains continue the good form. The veal tortellini come swathed in a rich and creamy sauce gently infused with asparagus and dotted with small chunks of vine-ripened tomatoes adding vital tartness. The braised lamb shank with spring vegetables is enormous and cooked to melt-off-the-bone perfection, although it is a little on the fatty side. All in all, this is a charming restaurant in which to have a relaxing meal that can (and should be, unless it’s summer) followed by a leisurely stroll.

• Previous reviews
  • 19 March,2009- reviewed by Time Out Dubai staff
  • 26 March,2008- reviewed by Jeremy Lawrence
  • 19 April,2006- reviewed by Matthew Lee
  • 01 March,2004- reviewed by Rob Orchard
  • 01 February,2003- reviewed by Rob Orchard
  • 01 September,2001- reviewed by Time Out Dubai Staff

Time Out reviews restaurants anonymously and pays for meals. Of course, we cannot guarantee the accuracy or independence of user reviews.