Al Mahara
Time Out misses out on the submarine ride but still has excellent seafood at the Burj Al Arab's underwater restaurant 19 Reviews
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Standards in this city don’t come much higher than those imposed by the Burj Al Arab. With the hotel’s ‘seven-star’ status, its flagship Al Mahara seafood restaurant has been a regular fixture in the Time Out Restaurant Awards since our eating and rating of food began. But what happens when you introduce a new head chef? Are the legendary standards maintained? There was only one way to find out.
Head chef Adam Melonas finished his residency at Al Mahara at the end of December, and we were suspicious that some things may be different the moment we received our booking confirmation via email. ‘We regret to inform that the submarine experience for Al Mahara Seafood Restaurant will not be available due to routine maintenance,’ it stated in bold.
What? We were such big fans of the elevator decked out like a submarine, complete with Filipino sea captain and CGI fish. Did the previous chef perhaps leave in a fit of rage, sabotaging the mock-aquatic vehicle on his way out? Was the new chef responsible for such a bold change?
If this was the case, he did nothing to detract from the feeling of awe you get as you enter the main restaurant. The huge aquarium, The Oval, around which all of the dining tables are arranged, is truly jaw-dropping, with all manner of colour and sizes of marine life darting about within – including a blacktip reef shark (Though thankfully there’s no chance of Jaws breaking through the five inch Perspex and landing on your plate).
Sitting near the tank, a gigantic humphead wrasse loomed in close to inspect us as we perused the menu. Once our orders were taken, we were offered a choice of flavoured bread rolls – celery, salmon, calamari and a Polish-style bread – and a small glass of warm salmon and leek soup to prepare the palate for our starters. At a restaurant where a meal for two costs in excess of Dhs1,000, such freebie surprises are much appreciated.
Then the first of our more substantial dishes arrived. My wagyu carpaccio was thin, delicate and full of flavour, decorated with a sharp cipriani sauce, argula and truffles. Across the table, my fellow diner was demolishing king crab and coriander cannelloni, the fluffy remains of the sea creature surrounded by soft, fresh pasta and drizzled in a tangy lime sauce. Fine dining had started already and we weren’t even onto the mains.
As we polished-off our strawberry and mint sorbet – another welcome interlude – my sea bass with deep-friend courgette and potato and vegetable pattie made its way to our table, accompanied by a thick, creamy mushroom and champagne sauce. Not ordinarily on the menu, Al Mahara offered the sea bass on this occasion as the halibut wasn’t available.
But it wasn’t a problem – the replacement fish crumbled under fork beneath the browned skin. And across the table, I witnessed a just-as-perfect Dover sole meuniere with French beans and potato purée being eaten in slow motion to savour the tender white meat and bubbling buttery broth that smothered it.
One more pit-stop for a small yoghurt and mango concoction, and a quick nod to a passing batfish (in the tank, rather than on someone’s plate), our desserts arrived. My dining partner’s chocolate sphere was one of the most spectacular dishes ever created. With the appearance of a dark brown cricket ball, the waiter poured a rich Earl Grey tea-infused chocolate ganache over the top, forcing the sphere to burst open and expose the gathering of fruit and cream sauce within. It left me looking at my vanilla brulée with berry compote and asking the waiter what it did.
In conclusion, there was no need to concern ourselves with standards after a change in chef. Al Mahara is as excellent as it has always been, submarine or not. And if there is a disgruntled ex-chef out there somewhere, then we have him to thank for paving the way.
The bill (for two)
2x set three-course meals Dhs650 each
1x Evian water bottle Dhs40
Total (excluding service) Dhs1,340
By James Brennan
- Previous reviews
- 05 April,2010- reviewed by Time Out Dubai staff
- 08 February,2010- reviewed by Daisy Carrington
- 30 March,2009- reviewed by Time Out Dubai staff
- 26 March,2008- reviewed by Jeremy Lawrence
- 29 August,2007- reviewed by TimeOut Dubai Staff
- 12 March,2007- reviewed by Time Out Dubai Staff
- 30 April,2006- reviewed by TimeOut Dubai Staff
- 01 May,2005- reviewed by Matthew Lee
- 01 January,2003- reviewed by Rob Orchard
- 01 September,2002- reviewed by Carolyn Robb
- 01 January,2002- reviewed by Time Out Dubai Staff
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