Rivington Grill
A slice of London comes to the Souk Al Bahar, we took a bite, here's what we thought 34 Reviews
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Stepping into Rivington Grill, I had the strangest sensation that I had accidentally stumbled through a portal, one that dropped me in the middle of downtown London.
The ebulliently packed room was filled with all the endearing archetypes I had tearfully left behind when arriving in Dubai from the English capital: burette-clad dinners, perfectly-poised waiters and a charmingly dishevelled manager in foghorn glasses. My date and I were immediately beguiled.
Like many restaurants in Dubai, Rivington Grill is an export. Refreshingly, though, this one has yet to set itself up as a mega chain – there are a humbling two outposts in London, and the Souk Al Bahar branch marks its international debut. The philosophy is simple: seasonal British fare, served well and without pomp.
A starter of seared scallops showcased the very best of what this restaurant is capable of. The three plump molluscs were melded with broad beans and chunks of merguez, a spicy lamb sausage that imbued the sea critters with a land-based meatiness. It was strange and kind of intoxicating to sample seafood that managed to taste like a roast. If it weren’t for the fact that the dish was over-salted, the effect would have been sublime.
My date’s beetroot salad was also a qualified success: on the upside, the ingredients were pristine, and many worked beautifully together. Warm smoked salmon, beetroot and bean sprouts made for a fresh, nutty mix. On the downside, though, there were a few too many flavours vying for dominance.
The quarrelsome ‘if’ word blocked the mains from an unmarred victory as well. My date’s medium sirloin would have been a testament to the beauty of British beef, were it not for the fact that it came out oozing pink when she ordered it medium. I could have screamed to the hills about the moist roast baby chicken before me
– if the dish’s dominant flavour had not been salt.
These aren’t complaints to put off potential diners; in spite of these glitches, my date and I positively adored our evening out. Moreover, these are observations intended to help the chefs, so that they can achieve the perfection the place deserves.
On an up note, the desserts were positively lovely. Full stop. The British expats out there will be happy to note this is one place they can rely on for a perfectly executed sticky toffee pudding – pliant, gooey, warm and sinful. And while ordering a simple serving of ice cream may seem a tad plain, the dish was anything but. The two scoops were laced with honeycomb chunks and served with a rich, warm, dark chocolate sauce. Heaven in a parfait glass.
As we left, the level of service – perhaps the best I’ve encountered in Dubai – made it clear we were dealing with a refreshingly un-Dubai entity. There was no waiting for the bill, no mind-numbing lapse between courses, and the waiter was always a nod or raised eyebrow away from meeting any request or answering any question. As we got up to leave, we glimpsed a view of the Burj Dubai, a few metres away, from the terrace. In an estimated couple of months, the completion of the Dubai Fountain will make it one of the best views in all of Dubai, and perhaps the only feature that places this restaurant outside of London or New York. Even with the city’s most famous landmark a stone’s throw away, Rivington Grill is one of the best escapes in the emirate.
The bill (for two)
1x Bottle of Hildon still water Dhs20
1x Scallops Dhs80
1x Beetroot salad Dhs45
1x Sirloin Dhs160
1x Baby chicken Dhs115
1x Sticky toffee pudding Dhs20
1x Honeycomb ice cream Dhs20
Service charge Dhs46
Total Dhs506
Time Out Dubai, 26 January 2009
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