The Dubai incarnation of this long-standing Milanese chain remains one of the city’s most popular restaurants. After 82 years in business, they have consistency down to a tee. The food moves from kitchen to table with remarkable speed. Lobster carpaccio with caviar and artichoke heart – one of the signature dishes – makes a wonderful start to the meal, and the pasta dishes are inventive too – try the black and white tagliolini with tiger prawns, asparagus and garlic oil.

The secondi menu offers a good deal of choice, from Italian staples such as ossobuco to sesame-crusted blue fin tuna. Chocolate soufflé fondant heads up the desserts, which soar. The final touches are not quite up there with the best, and there is the definite sense that this is a chain restaurant – albeit a fine-dining one – but Bice remains one of the city’s safest bets for a good Italian dining experience.