Brauhaus in Jumeirah Rotana, Satwa, Dubai - Restaurant Reviews

Brauhaus

On our last visit to Brauhaus, we complained about the atrocious soundtrack, an indelicate farrago of Deutsche-pop that included an ear-aching Atomic Kitten cover Discuss this article

On our last visit to Brauhaus, we complained about the atrocious soundtrack, an indelicate farrago of Deutsche-pop that included an ear-aching Atomic Kitten cover. However, we hadn’t been able to praise the food highly enough. Things, it seems, have changed somewhat in the past months. The volume of the music, thankfully, has been lowered to a pianissimo near-silence, but the quality of the food has seemingly nose-dived.

We still love the venue; a purpose-built semicircular space that classily replicates a traditional German tavern. Unfortunately on our visit the place was lifeless. As much as we appreciated the toning down of the tuneless volk-jangle, something was needed to generate atmosphere. The waiting staff were perfectly friendly and efficient, but somewhat lacking in cheer.

Things seemed to bode well for our meal when I seized a treat from my companion’s hors d’oeuvre plate, a smoked salmon medallion on an impeccably crumbly hash brown. My goulash had a strong tasty broth, but was let down by little pieces of beef so chewy as to render the dish inedible.

The main courses were adequate but uninspired. A giant portion of lamb chops came with a velvety mound of mashed potato speckled with rosemary and fennel, and a side salad with a sweet tangy dressing. The meat, however, wasn’t very tender, resolutely clinging to the bone. Dished up with fettuccine, leeks and cheese sauce, a fillet of grilled salmon was beautifully seasoned, but the fish lacked flavour beneath the crisp herb-encrusted edges. The droopy green pasta lacked dynamism and the cheese sauce and vegetables were merely bland.
The staff needed some cajoling before we could retrieve the menus to order dessert and we waited ages before our lacklustre puddings arrived. Although I scoffed the adjoining kiwi slices with fleeting fingers, my tablemate’s crêpes with caramel sauce suffered from a tired predictability. My apple strudel had been doused in a colourfully chocolatised vanilla sauce, but the fruit filling was too tame; a dry, warm, light-sugary flavour lacking fruity sharpness.

If Brauhaus wants to sparkle this Oktoberfest, it urgently needs a dose of vivacity.

By Matthew Lee