From Time Out Dubai Eating Out 2009
The ultimate in Dubai-style splurging has to be wolfing down Dhs595 wagyu steak on the 27th floor of the Burj al Arab. It’s hard to justify the extortionate prices – a meal for two costing the equivalent of a small sofa – but the experience is, as Mastercard would doubtless say, priceless.

The service is superb, the lounge singer accompanied by a tinkling piano adds sophistication rather than cruise ship chintz, and the decor is luxurious, if garish. The evening is consequently one of pure, unashamed decadence. Each dish is a masterpiece.

However, like many works of art, these masterpieces can be bizarre. Damien ‘cow in formaldehyde’ Hirst would be impressed with the chef’s slightly sadist degustation menu; scallops with a spicy apple tang and a fishy concoction encased in white chocolate do put diners’ stomachs to the test.

However, each ingredient is cooked to perfection, the top of the crop being the wagyu. The view from the restaurant is disappointing at night (mostly just the dark emptiness of the sea) but parts of The Palm are visible. For a better outlook, it’s worth wandering over to the neighbouring Sky View Bar, and if you’re not done with extravagance, why not try the Dhs27,000 cocktail? Or maybe not.