Handi in Taj Palace Hotel, Deira, Dubai - Restaurant Reviews

Handi

The answer began to unfold with a selection of mint, mango and lime pickle dips, and a bevy of wonderfully brittle poppadums to scoop them up with Discuss this article

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As we entered Handi, we were greeted twice. The charming waitress, who appeared to instinctively recall our reservation and who courteously led us to our table, welcomed us first. But before we were seated, a feverish tabla player and his wailing companion greeted us a second time – and kept on greeting us for the duration of the meal. It was to the whirling sounds of this musical two-piece that we found our place among the arched ceilings and luxurious furnishings of this most authentic of Indian restaurants.

On previous visits, we’d been mightily impressed. The chef – who belongs to the Qureshi dynasty, and whose ancestors once worked in the Royal Court – had an impressive pedigree that manifested itself in a dazzling panoply of deliciously exotic dishes. So the question this time around was, would the glowing feeling engendered by our two-pronged welcome continue throughout the meal?

The answer began to unfold with a selection of mint, mango and lime pickle dips, and a bevy of wonderfully brittle poppadums to scoop them up with. Before we could overload on these nibbles, we received the lassoni jingha – a generous serving of king prawns, marinated in garlic and cooked moist and tender in the tandoor. Beside them sat the lamb kebabs, which appealed with their soft pinkness and fiery kick. It was all very quickly snaffled, but we couldn’t help questioning our own judgement as the table next to ours took delivery of a sizzling hotplate of intensely fragrant chicken, which filled the air with a drama of piquant aromas. Next time, perhaps?

Any lingering doubts about our starters evaporated with the arrival of the murgh biryani. The fluffy basmati rice and rocks of chicken huddled under a crusted dome of baked bread, which cracked open to an explosion of prickly steam like a miniature spice volcano. The clouds dispersed to reveal an inviting bowl of palak chicken, which blended fresh spinach with fragile pieces of fleshy meat in a thick sauce. And the ghobi a masala was a pungent fusion of potato, cauliflower and devilish chilli that sparked the fuse and sent the whole merry melange into orbit. Well, everybody needs a boost from time to time.

We cooled down with dessert. Mine – a creamy, fresh Indian rice pudding with milk – certainly soothed my smouldering taste buds. And while my friend’s chocolate ice cream wasn’t exactly spectacular, it hit the spot all the same. Which is what Handi did on this occasion – it hit the spot. So, if you’re looking for good Indian food in an atmospheric and beautifully finished restaurant you should pay it a visit. You’ll be made doubly welcome.

The bill (for two)
3x Pellegrino Dhs66
2x non-alcoholic beer Dhs24
Lassoni jhinga Dhs69
Ghost kebab Dhs44
Palak chicken Dhs46
Murgh biryani Dhs42
Ghobi a masala Dhs34
Mutton naan Dhs10
Plain naan Dhs5
Plain rice Dhs15
Ice cream Dhs24
Rice pudding with milk Dhs24
Total (including service charge) Dhs403