From Time Out Dubai Eating Out 2009They say you can’t be all things to everyone, but Frankie’s has a fair stab at it. Conceived as an upscale diner with an inclusive vibe – families are positively welcome before 9.30pm – Frankie’s certainly lacks the snooty feel of so many of its rivals in Dubai.
The resulting atmosphere is buzzing and informal. The menu is what you might expect of an Italian restaurant abroad, but with a smattering of invention (presumably from the repertoire of Marco Pierre White, the nominal chef behind the business.
Speck-wrapped scallops with white bean sauce makes for a perfect starter, while the standard beef carpaccio and rocket is made special with a dash of delicious horseradish mousse.
Here and there mistakes creep in (over-salted spaghetti alle vongole, vaguely tough veal ossobuco), though the standards remain pretty high right through to dessert – particularly if you remember that Frankie’s was conceived as a family diner.
Service is slick and snappy (despite the crowds), the tinkle of lounge piano is soothing, and the atmosphere is conducive to return visits. If prices were a little lower, this place would be a real hit.