It’s a fantastic idea: theme an evening not around a cuisine but a colour 15 Reviews
Offering an à la carte menu from the Hilton’s top chefs, including roasts, Yorkshire puddings, eggs, pancakes and unlimited selected mixed bubbly beverages. Dhs199 (soft drinks), Dhs295 (unlimited house beverages) Timings: 12.30pm-3.30pm (Friday)
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It’s a fantastic idea: theme an evening not around a cuisine but a colour. In celebrating its first birthday, the décor, menu and music at Gordon Ramsay’s Glasshouse is brought to you courtesy of the colours red, blue, black and white. We visited on ‘red’ night – the entrance was covered with billowing scarlet drapes and inside the light bounced off pillars wrapped in crimson sheets.
The menu is understandably not 100percent red, incorporating quite a lot of pink and orange food. For starters we chose gazpacho and a beetroot gravadlax. The gazpacho was excellent – a lightly spiced blend of tomatoes, red peppers, chilli and wine vinegar with squares of delicious toasted focaccia drenched in salty butter. The beetroot gravadlax contained no beetroot – instead the blinis and cream cheese with chives came with smoked salmon, which was fine if not exciting. Main courses of roast beef and salmon were good. Big slabs of beef came rare, though we ordered them medium.
Despite this subversive bid to make the meal slightly redder, the dish was excellent – tender, juicy meat accompanied by a circle of roast potato, a hearty Yorkshire pudding and a dollop of rich hollondaise sauce. The tandoori salmon was delicate and perfectly spiced. We finished off the meal with a raspberry soufflé which was a light Ramsay classic circled with wonderful wild strawberries. The service was variable, with a range of different waiters, one of whom was quite flustered and sulky. Background music was interesting, provided by the enormously tall and charismatic singer, who had a lot of energy and came to chat with the guests between sets. Her keyboard accompanist was less impressive, and the song links with ‘red’ were slightly tenuous – they promised ‘fiery beats and passionate tunes’ but it was mainly cheese.
As well as the new celebratory menu, the restaurant is fêting its birthday with drinks for one dirham – an offer available only on certain drinks, not including the themed colour cocktails. Red night is now finished, but Blue night (seafood, blue cocktails) will run until October 5 then Black and White night (truffles, veal, chocolate) will take over. There are a few kinks to iron out before the evening really starts to hit the mark, but it’s already a lot of fun.By Rob Orchard
- Previous reviews
- 15 April,2013- reviewed by Time Out Dubai staff
- 21 March,2012- reviewed by Time Out Dubai staff
- 24 March,2011- reviewed by Time Out Dubai staff
- 24 March,2010- reviewed by Time Out Dubai staff
- 19 March,2009- reviewed by Time Out Dubai staff
- 26 March,2008- reviewed by Jeremy Lawrence
- 12 March,2007- reviewed by Time Out Dubai Staff
- 09 August,2006- reviewed by Time Out Dubai Staff
- 30 April,2006- reviewed by Time Out Dubai
- 01 May,2004- reviewed by Rob Orchard
- 01 February,2004- reviewed by Rob Orchard
- 01 June,2003- reviewed by Rob Orchard
- 01 March,2002- reviewed by Carolyn Robb
- 01 December,2001- reviewed by Time Out Dubai Staff
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