Spice Emporium

It should come as no surprise that the flagship Asian restaurant at the new Westin hotel is so self-consciously ‘now’ Discuss this article

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From Time Out Dubai Eating Out 2009

At Spice Emporium, a pair of futuristic glass cubes envelope two cooking stations, the attractive low-slung tables are hewn from dark walnut, and Latino house oozes out of the speakers. So far, so hip. The first sign that the restaurant’s chutzpah might outweigh its actual capabilities doesn’t take long to arrive, however.

The menu is extensive, but it seems the chef has hijacked classic Oriental dishes with accoutrements such as foie gras and flavoured foam (the unfailingly friendly staff will explain it’s French/Asian fusion – but we doubt this will make you feel any better). The starter portions are tiny and hit and miss, and the mains continue the latter theme: the chicken yellow curry is practically flawless, the tandoori salmon lacks any discernible spice.

You and your dining partner will at least have an adventurous evening: plotting your separate ways through a minefield of resounding successes, limp disappointments and middling fripperies. End it in unison, however, by sharing the gorgeous dessert of caramelised banana with coconut and black rice ice cream. There’s too much to like about Spice Emporium to deem it a disappointment.

However, until it learns to marry innovation with consistent execution, we suspect its lack of depth will leave it wanting

• Previous reviews
  • 09 June,2008- reviewed by Becky Lucas

Time Out reviews restaurants anonymously and pays for meals. Of course, we cannot guarantee the accuracy or independence of user reviews.